Applying lip balm daily without seeing results? It turns out that not all lip products are effective in hydrating lips, and some may even worsen dryness. However, by selecting a lip balm with skin-friendly ingredients (and avoiding harmful ones), you can finally say goodbye to chapped, peeling lips.
“There’s no conclusive evidence that proves or disproves this theory,” said Victoria Fu, a skincare chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions. “However, your lips shouldn’t need constant balm application year-round. If you’re facing persistent dryness, there may be other underlying issues, and it could be time to consult your dermatologist.”
It’s also possible that an allergen in your lip balm is contributing to the dryness, and these reactions don’t always show up on first use. “Repeated exposure to any ingredient can eventually trigger a new allergy, which may appear as irritation, rash, or dry, cracked skin. Allergens are often fragrances or preservatives in skincare and lip products,” explained Dr. Heidi B. Prather, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology.
Ingredients to look for in lip balms
To genuinely nourish and heal chapped lips, choose a lip balm with the right ingredients.
“Look for a formula that contains both humectants, which attract and hold water, and occlusives, which lock that moisture in. Without both, your lips can actually dry out as water evaporates,” advised Dr. Jessie Cheung, a board-certified dermatologist. “Common humectants include glycerin and hyaluronic acid, while natural occlusives encompass plant seed oils and beeswax,” she noted.
Gloria Lu, a skincare chemist and the other co-founder of Chemist Confessions, suggests seeking occlusives like petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, and polyisobutene (a synthetic polymer). Ceramides are also beneficial. “These oily, waxy compounds help retain moisture and make up for the lack of natural oils in the lips,” said Lu.
And if you’re wearing your balm outdoors, SPF is crucial. “Our lips lack melanin, which protects skin from UV rays, so they’re more vulnerable to sun damage,” Fu explained. Skipping SPF can lead to peeling, sunburned lips, and prolong healing time for already chapped lips.
“For SPF lip balms, you may need some trial and error. Mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can leave a whitish film, while chemical filters can sometimes cause an unpleasant taste. Finding an SPF balm you like for daytime use helps prevent lip aging over time!” Fu said.
Ingredients to avoid in lip balms
In addition to seeking specific ingredients, it’s important to avoid certain ones. However, not everyone will react negatively to every “avoid” ingredient.
“It really depends on your individual skin type,” Lu noted. “Lanolin, derived from sheep’s wool, is a great occlusive, but for some, it can cause irritation,” she explained.
“Lanolin is a common lip balm ingredient that can be linked to allergies, irritation, and a ‘drier’ appearance over time,” added Prather.
Minty-feeling balms can also cause irritation, despite the initial cooling sensation. “Avoid older formulations with phenol, camphor, and menthol. These provide a cooling effect but can cause dryness and irritation,” Cheung advised. Menthol is commonly added for its soothing feel, but it can dry out lips, especially for those prone to dryness. Salicylic acid, sometimes added for exfoliation, should be avoided for similar reasons.
The best lip balms to try
If you’re currently dealing with chapped lips or want to prevent them, the right lip balm can make a difference.
Prather suggests beginning with a gentle lip exfoliation using a sugar or salt scrub, then applying one of her recommended balms. “Simple is best. Minimizing ingredients can help avoid irritants or allergens. I recommend plain Vaseline or Vanicream Ointment for a minimalistic, hydrating approach,” Prather said.
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