A viral hair-cleaning trend could be causing more damage than good.
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| A viral hair-cleaning hack may be doing more harm than good. Getty Images |
Hair training, a method for maintaining cleaner hair for longer, has become popular on TikTok. The hashtags #hairtrainingtips and #traininghair have garnered 260.3 million and 280.2 million posts, respectively.
Enthusiasts of the practice claim they can avoid shampooing for weeks or even months — an attractive idea, particularly for those with oily hair. But does it actually work, or is it harmful?
What exactly is hair training?
Hair training involves gradually increasing the time between washes to encourage the scalp to produce less oil, which aims to make hair feel and appear cleaner for longer. Supporters say this practice allows them to set an ideal wash routine.
Is hair training effective?
Experts say no. Hair transplant surgeon and dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman explains, “While the idea sounds nice, it’s not backed by science. Skipping washes allows sweat, oil, and impurities to accumulate on the scalp,” which can result in hair loss and other scalp problems.
Board-certified cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Michele Green adds that excess oil and dirt on the scalp can cause seborrheic dermatitis, leading to dandruff, inflammation, and scaly patches. Scratching the scalp can worsen the issue, potentially damaging hair follicles and causing hair loss.
Sebaceous glands on the scalp produce sebum, a natural oil that hydrates and protects the scalp and hair. Kopelman notes, “Sebum is beneficial, but too much can clog pores, cause dandruff, and contribute to hair thinning.” Genetics largely determine how oily your scalp is, though other factors like hormones, stress, diet, and environment can influence oil production. For instance, a humid climate or stress may cause the scalp to become oily more quickly.
Since sebum production is driven by genetics and hormones, washing frequency doesn’t impact the amount of oil produced. “Hair training doesn’t alter how your sebaceous glands work,” Kopelman confirms.
How often should you wash your hair?
“There isn’t a universal answer for how often you should wash your hair,” Green says. “It depends on your hair type and scalp condition.” People with curly, coarse, or dry hair can typically wait longer between washes than those with thin, fine, or oily hair. Signs that it’s time to wash include greasy, limp hair, dandruff, or an odor from bacteria or fungus on the scalp.
Certified trichologist Shab Caspara also suggests looking for piecey roots instead of soft, flowy hair. Soreness or itchiness after a few days without washing indicates it’s time for a shampoo.
Tips to extend time between washes
If you want to delay washing for an extra day or two, Kopelman recommends methods like scalp gua sha, which uses a tool to gently scrape the scalp, promoting lymphatic drainage and removing sebum and impurities.
Dry brushing with a natural bristle brush can exfoliate the scalp, lifting excess oil and debris while improving circulation, which supports healthier hair growth. These techniques make your shampoo more effective by loosening buildup before washing. Kopelman advises using them one or two times a week and warns against over-exfoliation, which can irritate the scalp.
Other tips include avoiding heavy styling products that cause quicker oil buildup and blow-drying with low heat, focusing on the roots to keep hair feeling fresher between washes. Allowing hair to air-dry can trigger sebum production, leading to a greasy scalp faster, according to Kopelman. Though these methods don’t reduce oil production, they help distribute sebum from the scalp to the hair strands, making roots feel less oily.
Is dry shampoo still an option?
Hair experts recommend not relying on dry shampoo for managing oily scalps. Green states, “Dry shampoo doesn’t cleanse the scalp or hair but absorbs oil, adding to the buildup that needs washing off.”
It’s fine for occasional use, but using it frequently can clog hair follicles with starch, leading to scalp irritation. Green suggests opting for powder dry shampoos made from gentle ingredients like cornstarch or arrowroot instead of aerosol versions, which often contain irritants.
Though the concept of hair training may be appealing, experts advise against it. Whether you wash your hair daily or twice a week, it’s essential to create a routine that maintains your hair’s freshness and protects your scalp health.
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